Binchotan-Seared Satsumaimo with Tamari-Koji Caramel

Introduction

In the quiet stillness of the Kyoto morning, I often find that the most profound joy comes from the earth's simplest offerings. Today, we honor the Satsumaimo—the Japanese sweet potato. By treating it with the patience of shojin ryori and the transformative heat of binchotan charcoal, we coax out a deep, earthy caramelization. This dish is a dialogue between the smokiness of the fire and the salt-forward depth of our house-aged tamari, creating a small, meditative bite that celebrates the transition of the seasons.

Ingredients

• 2 medium Satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potatoes), preferably the Silk Sweet or Beni Haruka variety
• 200ml Kombu dashi (cold-extracted over 12 hours)
• 3 tbsp Aged tamari (gluten-free)
• 2 tbsp Mirin (hon-mirin, naturally brewed)
• 1 tbsp Maple syrup or brown rice syrup
• 1 tsp Shio-koji (for fermented depth)
• 12 Fresh shiso leaves
• 1 tsp Toasted black sesame seeds
• A pinch of Moshio (seaweed salt)
• Binchotan charcoal for grilling (or a cast-iron pan if unavailable)

Instructions

1. Scrub the Satsumaimo thoroughly, keeping the skin intact for texture and nutrients.
2. Slice the potatoes into uniform cubes, approximately 3cm each, using precise straight cuts.
3. In a small pot, gently simmer the cubes in kombu dashi over low heat for 8-10 minutes until just tender but still holding their shape. Drain and pat dry.
4. Prepare your binchotan grill until the coals glow a soft, steady white. Place the potato cubes on the grate, searing each side until a light char and smoky aroma develop.
5. In a small cedar-lined or heavy-bottomed pan, combine the tamari, mirin, maple syrup, and shio-koji. Reduce over low heat until the mixture thickens into a glossy, dark lacquer.
6. Using a brush made of natural fibers, coat each side of the grilled potato with the tamari glaze. Return to the heat for 30 seconds per side to allow the sugars to caramelize into a crisp, savory crust.
7. Arrange each caramelized cube on a single, vibrant shiso leaf atop an asymmetric ceramic plate.
8. Garnish with a delicate sprinkle of toasted black sesame seeds and a trace of moshio salt to brighten the umami.

As you taste these golden morsels, let the warmth of the binchotan and the umami of the tamari linger. In shojin ryori, we eat not just to nourish the body, but to acknowledge our connection to the soil and the season. This fingerfood is a reminder that even the humblest root, when treated with reverence, can become a masterpiece of wabi-sabi beauty. Enjoy this moment of stillness.

Hiroshi